A spot to look for revisions/corrections to our patterns!
On occasion someone contacts us about one of our patterns and says "Hey, wait a minute, that doesn't make sense!" We'll fix that issue here.
ZIP, SNAP, GO A lovely lady named Mary pointed out to us on the Zip, Snap, Go that when you take 4 1/4" WOF for the credit card slots and then try to cut linings that are 7 1/4" x 5 1/4" you will run out of fabric. So true! The previous, original measurement for the Lining was 7 1/4" x 4 1/2". Somewhere along the way we decided the Lining, which forms the inside of the zipper pocket, could be a bit deeper and changed that measurement to 5 1/4" and failed to change the fabric requirement. Either measurement will work "technically". Some solutions:
If you have an exact 1/4yd of main fabric go ahead and cut the lining at the original 7 1/4" x 4 1/2" - OR
If you have a bit extra on your 1/4 yd cut go ahead and use the 5 1/4" measurement - OR you can see if the Lining pieces will fit on the contrast fabric and cut at 5 1/4".
We like the bit extra depth of the zipper pocket Lining and when reprinting we will change the Main Fabric requirement to be 1/3 yard. Sorry for the inconvenience and thank you for purchasing our pattern.
CADDY PAD (all sizes) - A few of our very old patterns list materials required as Insul-Bright or 2 layers of cotton batting. This has been corrected to say 2 layers of Insul-Bright or 2 layers of cotton batting. Two layers gives your caddy a nice "thick enough to stand up" quality. Also gives you the nice thick pad to iron on.
GLAM SHELL - a small handful of patterns were released without these corrections.
Make this correction on your pattern before beginning. Instruction # 8 has Zipper Pocket #2 and Zipper Pocket #1 reversed. Step #8 should read:
8. Pin the Zipper tape of Zipper Pocket #2 against the line as in Picture 4. They will be RST. Line it up right to left with Pocket #1 opened up.The picture is correct.
|Cutting layout changed a teeny bit.|
MY CAMPING GEAR On the back of the pattern- Sleeping Bag - one more item you need to purchase is 2 - 1 yard pieces of rick rack trim
"BRAID ME UP, SCOTTY" In Step 6 we tell you to apply interfacing to the wrong side of the stripped front, the back fat quarter and the 2 lining fat quarters to make 4 panels. Well you already have interfacing on the stripped front panel so don't do it again, just interface the other 3 fat quarters.
Our apologies for this confusion and our grateful thanks to Marty in New York for catching this one.
CHAMELEON Peggy pointed out to us that she couldn't find the finished size of the Chameleon bag - thank you Peggy - it measures approximately 17" wide X 10" tall (without handles of course) and 5" deep.
CORRECTIONS: We incorrectly referenced the main and contrast fabric on the Pleated Sophisticate Jacket portion of this bag. Please change that area to read:
¾ yd 45” Main Fabric (Large Print)
1 1/8 yd 45” Contrast Fabric (Small Print)
ADDITION: When we call out interfacing, we are using 21" interfacing
DOLLS ON THE GO Before starting instruction # 41 we need to tell you that the top and bottom panels are identical and they need to be sandwiched up before you mark the corners in # 41. Sandwich the Soft and Stable (r) between the two pieces of fabric.
BAGS TO RICHES
Please note, the sizes listed to CUT in the pattern, these Steps that refer to the CUT size are incorrect, do not match up with the CUT size and they SHOULD. Sorry.
#6 - Lay the 13” x 23” Front/Back panel right side up on your work surface. Center the Zipper along a 13” edge, right sides together. Lay the 13” edge of the Hidden Pocket Lining right side down along the same Zipper and Front/Back edge. Match the edges and pin the three layers together.
#11 - Take the 13” x 4¾” Front/Back Upper Panel fabric and lay it face down matching up with the Zipper tape you just pinned. Picture 5. Repin the three layers.
#16 - Place the 13” x 21” Stabilizer, adhesive side toward the wrong side of the Front/Back fabric. Position the 13” edge of the stabilizer up to the fold as noted on the left side of Picture 7. Unfolded you will have a slight gap between the stabilizer and the seam allowance edge, as shown in Picture 9, and you can see your press/crease line from Step 14. Flip the Front/Back Upper fabric back and forth to check the placement of the stabilizer. When you’re satisfied that it’s correctly on the fold line and not hindering the pleat, go ahead and follow manufacturer’s instructions to adhere. NOTE: I did a little pressing from the wrong side; just enough to hold the edge near the fold, then flipped it over to get better heat on the glue.